Full Circle Textiles Project – Cellulosics (FCTP-C)
The ambition of the FCTP-C Project was to validate economically viable and scalable promising technologies in cellulosic chemical recycling from a select group of innovators to tackle these issues. Leading global organisations Laudes Foundation, Birla Cellulose, Kering, PVH Corp. and Target joined Fashion for Good to explore the disruptive solutions, with the goal of creating new fibres and garments from used clothing and ultimately drive industry-wide adoption.
Problem Statement
As much as 73% of clothing produced is sent to landfill or is incinerated and of all new clothing made, less than 1% of material used comes from recycled sources. Circularity in textile-to-textile recycling presents the fashion industry with a complex challenge based on the technology available today. While mechanical recycling is technically feasible, there are significant drawbacks; high purity feedstock, such as cotton, is required to produce output of sufficient quality and recovered fibres are of inferior strength when compared with the virgin equivalent. Chemical recycling is able to address these shortcomings; however, the technology has a number of barriers to overcome including a lack of financing, relatively small-scale output and limited offtake commitment from brands.
Executive Summary
The Full Circle Textiles Project (FCTP), orchestrated by Fashion for Good, brings together the relevant stakeholders across the spectrum of chemical recycling of cellulosics, to bring structure to the innovation process, test their output with industry experts, and best enable the scaling of the technology. The unique consortium of brands, fibre producers, manufacturers and innovators was an intentional convening of essential stakeholders in line with key learnings identified in the report by Fashion for Good and Boston Consulting Group “Financing the Transformation in the Fashion Industry”.
The aim of this project was to address strategies to reduce the amount of textiles going to waste whilst simultaneously alleviating the resource strain on virgin materials through the recycling of used textiles. The innovators involved in the FCTP-C project produced cellulosic output from waste textiles that were processed into fibres, yarns and eventually end garments for participating brand partners Kering and PVH Corp. This provided innovators with the opportunity to validate their technology with established supply chain partners, as well as provide brands the ability to pioneer the integration of recycled textiles into their production.
In order to bring disruptive solutions to scale, the industry needs bespoke consortiums of brands, supply chain partners, innovators, and investors with a shared technology focus to concentrate resources and de-risk investments.Thus, through this Project and its consortium, Fashion for Good aimed to inspire other stakeholders to follow suit in supporting chemical recycling innovators to trial and ultimately secure offtake, catalysing the transformation to a truly circular economy.
Goals of the Project
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To investigate economically viable and scalable solutions for cellulosic chemical recycling to enable a closed loop system converting textile waste – of cotton and cotton-blend materials, to produce new man-made cellulosic fibres.
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Strategise to reduce the amount of textiles going to waste whilst simultaneously alleviating the resource strain on virgin materials through the recycling of used textiles.
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Project Results
A phased and collaborative approach is essential for scaling cellulose chemical recycling, bringing together key stakeholders to foster innovation. This consortium allowed innovators to receive valuable feedback on their recycled fibres throughout the production stages, accelerating technical development and market readiness. By sharing risks and focusing on their areas of expertise, stakeholders enhanced the overall effectiveness of the project.
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The following four focus areas are key to enable further scaling of chemical recycling of cellulose (and other fibres):
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Optimise technical development to enable large scale roll out of recycling technologies – moving from lab, pilot to commercial scale can require technical changes to be made to innovator processes. Innovators should continue to work with supply chain partners to ensure their processes are compatible thus scaleable to enable circularity across industry.
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Increase recycled content in fibres and yarns – requires both innovator and supply chain innovation development. Innovators will continue testing with brands and supply chain partners to optimise their process and increase the recycled content of the fibres – moving the industry closer towards ‘true’ circularity.
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Funding and offtake support are required to advance roll out – even if innovator technologies, together with the relevant supply chain partners, are able to produce 100% recycled content fibres and yarns, the growth of the industry is still dependent on suitable financing and offtake commitment for growth. Long term commitments are crucial as they provide certainty of demand for the product in the market – de-risking the opportunity for financiers. Financing is absolutely key for the scaling of these technologies.
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The necessary infrastructure needs to be built – Support the development of adjacent industries like textile waste collection, sorting, pre-processing to assist feedstock procurement for recyclers. This is a crucial lever in creating supply chains that enable circularity.
Stakeholders Involves
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Innovators: Circ, EVRNU, Infinite Fiber Company, Circulose (formerly Renewcell), Phoenxt
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Catalytic Funders: Laudes Foundation, Target
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Supply Chain: Birla Cellulose
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Relevant Resources
A New Frontier in Chemical Recycling
Fashion for Good project champions chemical recycling tech
Sustainability initiative Fashion for Good (FFG) has initiated a new project which, with the support of a consortium of brands, manufacturers and industry organisations, will vie to scale promising chemical recycling solutions in cellulosic textile production. The Full Circle Textiles Project: Scaling Innovations in Cellulosic Recycling project brings together Kering, PVH Corp., Target, Birla Cellulose, the Laudes Foundation and Canopy, and creates an incubated environment in which the technologies of Infinited Fiber Company, Re:newcell, Tyton Biosciences, Evrnu and Phoenxt will be trialled in the manufacture of garments, with scope to scale such solutions.
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Sorting for Circularity Rewear
Fashion for Good expanded its Sorting for Circularity framework to address the challenge of sorting for rewearable textiles to understand better their resale potential and the demand across the second-hand market. We launched an 18-month initiative in January 2024 in collaboration with Circle Economy, brand partners adidas, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co. and Zalando to enhance the sorting of rewearable textiles using innovative AI technologies. The project seeks to improve garment recovery for resale, promoting circularity in the fashion industry.
