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Sorting for Circularity USA

Sorting for Circularity USA

The project aimed to assess the potential for fibre-to-fibre recycling in the United States. The project evaluated consumer behaviour around textile disposal and analysed post-consumer textile waste to determine its suitability for recycling. The goal was to promote circularity by improving textile collection systems and supporting the development of recycling infrastructures and technologies.

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Problem Statement

The U.S. generates approximately 15.4 million tonnes of textile waste annually, with only 15% recovered, and 85% sent to landfills or incinerators. The absence of adequate data on consumer disposal patterns and the lack of recycling infrastructure for post-consumer textiles make it difficult to shift towards a circular economy. To address these challenges, comprehensive data on fibre composition and consumer behaviour is needed to inform the development of scalable recycling technologies and effective collection systems.

Executive Summary

The Sorting for Circularity USA project was initiated in January 2023 by Fashion for Good and Resource Recycling Systems (RRS), facilitated by brand partners, adidas, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co., and Target, as well as Eastman, H&M and Nordstrom, as external partners.

The U.S. generates approximately 15.4 million tonnes of textile waste annually, with only 15% recovered, and 85% sent to landfills or incinerators. The Sorting for Circularity USA project aimed to bridge this gap by evaluating the recycling potential of textile waste. The project’s analysis found that 56% of post-consumer textiles are suitable for fibre-to-fibre recycling, representing an annual market value increase of $1.5 billion. The project also surveyed consumer behaviour, finding that while a significant proportion of textiles are diverted for donation or resale, a large amount of non-rewearable items remains uncollected for recycling. This report highlights the need for optimised collection programmes and improved recycling infrastructure to support the transition to a circular textile economy.

Goals of the Project

  • Identify improvements to collection systems to increase the recovery of textiles suitable for fibre-to-fibre recycling.

  • Provide data on consumer disposal behaviour to inform programme optimisation.

  • Analyse fibre composition of post-consumer textiles to assess the feasibility of scaling recycling technologies.

  • Develop insights to guide investment in textile recycling infrastructure and close the loop on textile waste.

Timeline

  • January 2023

    Project Launch

  • Q1 - Q2 2023

    Consumer Survey Design and Deployment

  • Q2 - Q4 2023

    On the ground textile composition analysis, samples collected from seven regions across the US during both Spring / Summer and Autumn / Winter using Near – Infrared technology, with a focus on recyclability of cotton and polyester.

  • Q4 2023

    Data processing, initial results and stakeholder engagement 

  • May 2024

    Project Close

Project Results

  • Recyclability: 56% of textiles in the waste stream were found to be suitable for fibre-to-fibre recycling (up to 35% cotton, up to 19% polyester, 1.8% nylon, and up to 21% polycotton) with potential to unlock $1.5 billion in annual market value. 

  • Consumer Behaviour: 60% of consumers divert textiles through donation or resale channels, but 40% still discard them, mainly due to concerns over poor quality or convenience. The industry needs to educate consumers on what items can and cannot be donated and available product take back option and donation options. Further improvements in collection infrastructure, ensuring accessible locations and better recycling pathways.

  • Key Fibre Findings: Cotton accounts for 51% of the residential post-consumer textile stream, followed by polyester at 28%. Both fibres offer significant potential for fibre-to-fibre recycling​. 

  • Next Steps: Further exploration into developing automated textile sorting solutions and scaling collection systems. The focus shifted towards securing investment for infrastructure development and expanding the recycling capacity.

    • To be commercially viable, textile collection and processing costs must align with the value of recovered textiles, likely requiring funding and policies like EPR. 
    • Recycled fibre prices must match virgin fibre prices or be supported by policies shifting system economics.
    • Long-term agreements between recyclers and brands are crucial for financial stability and attracting investment during early commercialisation.

Stakeholders Involved

Relevant Resources

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