
Footwear Material Innovations Landscape
This document explores the urgent need for circularity in the footwear industry, highlighting the challenges associated with footwear waste, complex design, and lack of recycling infrastructure. It showcases innovative solutions, including advanced sorting, disassembly, and recycling technologies, and discusses policy and industry collaboration. It also introduces key stakeholders and ongoing initiatives aimed at driving circularity in footwear production and waste management.
Introduction
The footwear industry is undergoing significant transformation driven by the need to reduce its environmental footprint. Global footwear production reached 24 billion pairs in 2022, with Asia contributing over 87%. However, the sector heavily depends on petroleum-based materials and complex, non-recyclable designs, contributing to high carbon emissions and waste. The typical running shoe emits approximately 14 kg CO₂ equivalent during its lifecycle. Footwear materials often release microplastics and involve toxic components like phthalates and heavy metals.
This document centres on material innovations, particularly in footwear sole materials, including ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA), polyurethane (PU), thermoplastic elastomers (TPE), and rubber. It introduces concepts such as bio-based and recycled content, alternative chemistries, and performance versus environmental trade-offs. It explores the use of next-gen materials, circular design, reverse logistics, and innovations in manufacturing and end-of-use systems. Additionally, it classifies footwear types, outlines detailed shoe anatomy, and discusses testing and sustainability standards. This systems-thinking approach identifies intervention points and calls for unified sustainability benchmarks to foster impactful innovation.
Contents
- Lay of the Land: Key Challenges and Intervention Areas
- Market trends, environmental impacts, supply chain dynamics, and systems thinking for sustainable solutions.
- Categorisation of Footwear
- Typologies based on European Commission classifications, and anatomy of footwear components.
- Deep Dive: Footwear Sole Materials
- In-depth evaluation of materials used in insoles, midsoles, and outsoles.
- Sole Material: Ethylene-Vinyl Acetate (EVA)
- Conventional properties, environmental drawbacks, bio-based innovations, and recycling challenges.
- Sole Material: Polyurethane (PU)
- Types of PU, environmental risks, isocyanate concerns, and emerging alternatives including NIPU.
- Sole Material: Thermoplastic Elastomers (TPE)
- Categories of TPE (TPU, TPR, TPE-A), processing methods, and biodegradable options.
- Sole Material: Rubber
- Natural vs synthetic rubber, sourcing concerns, vulcanisation, and biobased alternatives.
- Performance Testing Standards
- Standardised methods to evaluate durability, safety, and material performance.
- Feedstock and End-of-Use Standards
- Classification of feedstocks (1st–4th generation), end-of-life considerations, and recyclability benchmarks.