Problem Statement
Next-gen materials offer a vital solution for future business growth and the achievement of the fashion industries goals.
Next-gen materials present significant opportunities during a time of mounting challenges, including climate change, textile waste accumulation, geopolitical turbulence, tightening regulations and commodity competition. However, as of today, next-gen materials – make up less than 1% of global fibre production.
The scaling of next-generation materials is hindered by financial, technical, and operational obstacles. Overcoming these challenges is key to achieving the transition the fashion industry needs towards next-gen materials – and that is what Fashion for Good is setting out to do.
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How are we addressing this area?
Our report, Scaling Next-Gen Materials in Fashion: An Executive Guide, reveals that next-gen materials could represent 8% of the total fibre market by 2030, equivalent to approximately 13 million tonnes. (Note: This analysis doesn’t include leather alternatives)
Scaling next-gen materials requires both individual brand action and industry-wide collaboration across three primary levers: Demand, cost & capital. Fashion for Good’s initiatives support the industry across those levers in order to bend the adoption curve and reduce the cost of the transition.
These initiatives include:
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Demand: Consistent demand signals stabilise markets; demand pooling and transition pricing can overcome adoption barriers. FFG’s Fiber Clubs orchestrate brands, innovators, and suppliers to pool demand and build efficiencies. Our Price Parity Toolkit enables novel commercial and pricing mechanisms to reduce the price premium barrier.
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Cost: FFGs’s collaborative Validation Projects validate the performance and impact of these technologies and enable cost efficiencies and risk sharing.
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Capital: Fashion for Good works with innovators to set up optimal financing and ownership models, by supporting the development of the right capital stack (e.g., via project financing) as well as matchmaking with the right scaling partners.
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Next-Gen Fibre Definitions
(this is not an exhaustive list)
T2T (Textile-to-Textile) chemical recycling PET
Chemical recycling is a generic term that includes several recycling processes (solvent processing, depolymerisation, gasification). Depending on recycling processes, energy consumption, yield and output vary broadly; reaction outputs are syngas, monomers, polymers. The recycling process produces substances that can be used as raw material to manufacture new material. PET chemical recycling uses PET rich textile feedstock and one of the following processes: glycolysis, hydrolysis, methanolysis, or enzymatic depolymerisation to break polyester down to the monomer level. Depending on the technology, the outputs differ and require repolymerisation into PET.
T2T chemical recycling MMCF
The chemical recycling process produces substances that can be used as raw material to manufacture new material. Cellulosic chemical recycling uses cellulose rich (for example, cotton) textile waste feedstock through solvent processing to create a manmade cellulosic pulp/fibre.
Alternative processing MMCF
Alternatives to MMCF processing with hypothesised reduced impact (for example, fewer chemicals) when compared to conventional viscose or other MMCF processes. Examples include utilisation of ionic liquids as a solvent or mechanophysical techniques.
Alternative feedstock MMCF
Utilisation of alternative feedstocks (nontextile waste) to produce pulp for MMCF production. Examples include agri-residue and bacterial cellulose.
Cottonised bast fibres
Fibres derived from the outer cell layers of the stems of various plants, both cultivated for use in textiles and agri-residue fibres. These fibres undergo cottonisation processing to shorten bast fibre length and remove lignin and other components to allow for spinning on cotton machinery and improved handfeel and aesthetic properties. These cottonisation processes can be mechanical, chemical, enzymatic or other, or used in combination.
Biosynthetics
Biosynthetics refer to materials that are made from or produced, either wholly or partially, from renewable biological resources; this distinguishes them from traditional synthetics, which are typically derived from fossil fuels. Some common examples of biosynthetics are bio-based polyamides, bio-based PET, polylactic acid (PLA), and polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs).
Bio-based polyethylene terephthalate (PET)
Bio-based polyethylene terephthalate (PET) is a biosynthetic polyester made from renewable biological feedstocks, typically using bio-derived monoethylene glycol (bio-MEG) and terephthalic acid (TPA). Bio-based PET is chemically identical to conventional fossil-based PET, has a reduced carbon footprint, and compatible with existing PET recycling infrastructure.
Bio-based polyamide (PA)
Bio-based polyamide (PA) refers to a family of biosynthetic polymers derived partially or fully from renewable biological feedstocks (such as castor oil or bio-based sebacic acid). These polyamides are synthesised chemically through polymerisation reactions and have similar properties to conventional fossil-based nylons.
Polylactic acid (PLA)
Polylactic acid (PLA) is a biodegradable polyester made by the polymerisation of lactic acid, which is typically produced by the fermentation of plant-based sugars (e.g., corn, sugarcane).
Polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHA)
Polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHA) are a biodegradable and bio-based family of polyesters that are produced naturally by microorganisms through the fermentation of sugars, lipids, or other carbon sources.
Polybutylene succinate (PBS)
Polybutylene succinate (PBS) is a biodegradable biosynthetic polyester produced by the chemical polycondensation of succinic acid and 1,4-butanediol, which can be derived from renewable biological sources.
Polyethylene furanoate (PEF)
Polyethylene furanoate (PEF) is a biosynthetic polyester produced by the chemical polymerisation of bio-based monomers, usually 2,5-furandicarboxylic acid (FDCA) and monoethylene glycol (MEG). It is normally developed as a renewable alternative to PET.
"Leather" Alternatives and PU "Leather" Alternatives
“Leather” Alternatives and PU “Leather” Alternatives are innovative materials designed to replace and/or replicate traditional animal leather and fossil fuel–based synthetics with more sustainable options that do not require animal processing. These alternatives include materials made from plants, mycelium, microbial fermentation, and even cultivated animal cells grown in lab conditions.
Biofabricated proteins
Man-made fibres produced from protein polymers which are biofabricated by genetically modified microbes fed on nutrients (sugar feedstock). The polymer is extracted, purified, dried and then the protein polymer solution is spun into fibres. Regenerated proteins: Man-made fibres produced from either animal or vegetable nonfibrous proteins which have been reconfigured to take up a fibrous form. The process requires the isolation of the polymer from the source material for solubilisation so that it can be extruded or spun.
Integrated recycling
Relevant Innovators
Matereal
Matereal is developing proprietary technology for the production of fully renewable non-isocyanate polyurethanes (NIPUs) for use in foams, coatings, and adhesives with footwear, fabrics and outdoor gear chosen as the initial target markets. Matereal uses oil from microalgae or other non-food sources, which give NIPUS with smaller carbon footprints when compared to materia made with isocyanates.
traceless
Traceless creates bio-based films and coats that are home compostable, do not compete with food production and are qualitatively a real alternative to conventional plastic – 100% biodegradable and compostable.
Rubi Laboratories
Rubi turns industrial CO2 emissions into drop-in cellulose pulp for MMC alternatives utilising a cell free, enzyme based direct biochemical process. Through mimicking the process of trees, Rubi’s technology can achieve cradle-to-gate carbon-negativity and produce output for use in existing textile mills.
Gencrest
Gencrest is a Biotech startup engaged in developing sustainable alternative natural fibre obtained from plants & post-harvest agri biomass. Gencrest R&D have a patented process “Fibrezyme” which is chemically neutral and uses biomolecule / enzymatic solution for converting these extracted raw plant-based fibre into soft spinnable fibre for Apparel & other Textiles.
Algreen
Algreen is developing alternative materials from biobased sources, that can replace fossil-based products such as PU. Certified algae and other agricultural waste streams serve as a feedstock, which is transformed through a green chemistry process into fully biobased polyols and various building blocks for non-isocyanate PU. This can be further utilised for adhesive, apparel coating, foam and sequins in the existing supply chain and on conventional PU machinery.
Descatuk
Descatuk has developed a process of fibre extraction and yarn creation from grass to produce a fabric similar to Linen. Grown in the highlands of India, the wild grass needs neither water nor pesticides. Descatuk also has a positive impact on livelihoods by providing fair job opportunities for locals.
Balena
Balena has developed BioCir™, the first elastomer that is fully compostable while durable, flexible, soft, and smooth. It combines durability, comfort and 100% composability with a sustainable end-of-life plan.
Ponda
Ponda connects the regeneration of damaged wetlands to the production of healthier materials for the fashion industry. Their next-generation textile BioPuff ®, is a warm, lightweight and biodegradable insulation material made from one of the best plants for wetland regeneration.
Biophilica
Biophilica transforms garden and park waste into Treekind™ – a leather alternative that is compostable, plastic-free, and recyclable as green waste or into new Treekind™ material.
Lignopure
LignoPure has established a development platform for lignin-based alternatives in the material science field. The purpose is to create drop-in solutions that allow clients to to replace fossil-based materials in their composites, coatings, resins, and many others.
The Hurd Co.
The Hurd Co. engineers fibre pulp made from 100% agricultural waste feedstock to be converted into viscose alternatives. The zero waste Agrilose™ process uses less water and significantly less energy than conventional man-made cellulosic fibres.
Bagrotec
Bagrotec initiates and executes various sustainable bamboo processing projects for textile fibre production. Using a proprietary process, bamboo is mechanically processed before enzymes are applied to naturally produce organic bamboo fibre.
Materra
Materra is developing a technology for cotton agriculture that reduces water and fertiliser while also being grown in an insecticide-free environment. Materra is looking to achieve greater cotton growing efficiency by preventing waste of agricultural inputs, increasing delivery efficiency, and researching a range of biological pest control methods.
GALY
GALY engineers cotton in labs, rather than farming, through multiplication of cells directly into the cotton fibre (removing steps of traditional cotton plantation). As a result they can grow cotton without the use of pesticides or fertilisers, using considerably less water.
UKHI Hemp Foundation
UKHI Hemp Foundation is a farm-to-market company, producing more than five hundred products from hemp, including hemp textiles, papers, bioplastics, composite, food products and medicines. They improve farmer and artisan livelihoods by training them to cultivate hemp and produce fabrics with higher hemp content using improvised fibre extraction processes.
Fairbrics
Fairbrics have developed a process that creates ethylene glycol (a component of polyester) from waste CO2, with the resultant chemical having identical properties to petroleum-based ethylene glycol. This chemical allows end products to have the same properties as petroleum-based ethylene glycol, thus offering a CO2 based PET.
HeiQ AeoniQ
HeiQ is a leading Swiss, London listed materials and textile technology innovation company creating effective and high-performance functional textiles. HeiQ AeoniQ™ offers a continuous cellulose filament yarn with claimed enhanced tensile properties similar to polyester and nylon.
Chlorohemp Agrotech
Chlorohemp Agrotech is developing large scale fully integrated hemp processing units and applying cutting edge biosciences to develop an effective research database on Indian Hemp varieties.
Modern Synthesis
Modern Synthesis has developed a high performance petrochemical and latex free bacterial cellulose based composite to replace conventional Polyurethane and conventional leather. Their patent-pending ‘microbial weaving’ process employs bacteria to a cellulose-based composite material that is naturally biodegradable or closed-loop recyclable, with reduced emissions compared to PU leather.
Kintra Fibers Inc
Kintra has developed a biobased and biodegradable polyester alternative from a novel, proprietary version of polybutylene succinate (PBS) derived from renewable feedstocks. PBS is used to produce yarns and consecutively fabrics (knits and wovens) for the textile industry.
IBANSS
IBANSS technology makes bamboo and agri-waste based granules that are alternatives to polyester pellets, are certified home compostable, and can be used to make fibres, fabrics and packaging that have fashion, medical and industrial applications.
Imogo
Imogo offers a digitally enabled spray dyeing technology through its DyeMax machine, which uses a combination of a high-speed spray application with a proprietary autoclave fixation step, used for both dyeing and finishing. Their technology offers a lower use of water, chemistry, energy and increased accuracy and flexibility compared to conventional methods.
Spintex
Spintex have developed a spider inspired silk spinning process from a water-based solution of dissolved silk fibres, sourced from amongst others, post-consumer waste streams. The process is more energy efficient than plastic fibre formation therefore offering a sustainable alternative of next generation fibres and materials.
Green Whisper
Green Whisper develops, designs, and sells customised textiles produced from banana fibre, which is then woven into textiles. Using agriculture residues as raw materials limits the additonal virgin resources needed, and yarn production is done using zero chemicals.
9Fiber
9Fiber’s patented solution converts unwanted waste material from cannabis and industrial hemp industries into usable bast fiber and hurd to be used into a wide variety of commercial, industrial, paper and automative products.
Phool
Phool upcycles floral waste from temples and mosques in India with their ‘flowercycling’ technology to make a florafoam that is a biodegradable, compostable, high-performing and inflammable alternative to Styrofoam as well as a bio-leather called Fleather also made from the flower waste.
Greenhope
Greenhope is a social technology enterprise manufacturing biodegradable technologies to address hard-to-recycle items that are too small, contaminated, not economically viable, or destined for landfills. Their Ecoplas bioplastic sources starch from local farmers and turn it into packaging for apparel, food, and non-food applications.
Agraloop
Agraloop offer a micro regional bio-refinery process designed to produce fibres from crop waste, which can then be processed using conventional cotton machinery. Through carbon sequestration and soil regeneration, Agraloop provides environmental benefits.
SEFF
SEFF produces cottonised hemp fibres and blends of hemp fabrics utilising a patented Nano-Pulse™ cottonisation process which uses significantly less water and energy than conventional hemp cottonisation.
FARFARM
Farfarm is a regenerative and responsible supply chain consultancy. It supports brands and the industry to develop responsible fabrics using Agroforestry Systems that regenerate nature and promote social development for communities.
Bear Fiber
Bear Fiber produces cottonised hemp fibre, silver, yarn, textiles and finished garments. Their cottonisation process using less energy and water compared to standard processes.
Algaeing
Algaeing is a textile innovation company that uses microalgae to manufacture fibres and dyes in a closed loop system that can be used with existing production machinery. Algaeing claims that its algae-based technology uses no chemicals, no fertilisers, and does not emit CO2.
Provenance
Provenance produces animal-free type I collagen for the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and packaging industries. Using this technology to bio-engineer a true leather equivalent by programming the self-assembly of collagen molecules the building blocks of leather.
Flocus
FLOCUS™ is the trademark for Kapok fibres offering an assortment of kapok textile materials such as fibres, yarns, textiles and non-wovens for a wide range of applications. Kapok is a natural fibre found in a non-food fruit crop that grows in many subtropical areas, and their trees need no irrigation, pesticides and fertilisers thus offering a more environmentally alternative to cotton.
BioGlitz
BioGlitz produces biodegradable glitter made from eucalyptus tree extract that is pressed into a thin film. The eco-glitter is biodegradable and compostable, which allows for the sustainable consumption of glitter without the environmental damage associated with microplastics.
Keel Labs
Keel Labs yarns and fibres from kelp, a variety of seaweed. Keel Labs creates both clean materials and processes – fitting directly into existing manufacturing infrastructures with the final material being biodegradable and can be dyed with natural pigments in a closed loop cycle.
Infinited Fiber Company
Infinited Fiber Company is a textile-to-textile recycler that has developed a technology that can turn cotton-rich textile waste into a cellulose carbamate fibre (InfinnaTM). This next generation process can divert waste that would otherwise be sent to landfill or incineration, and regenerate it into a new fibre for the textile industry.
pond Textile
Pond Textile has developed a 100% plant based, biodegradable resin fibre derived from plant starch with the possibility for feedstock to be sourced from waste streams. This fibre offers a replacement for petroleum-derived polyester yet has a reduced carbon footprint in comparison.
Natural Fiber Welding
Natural Fiber Welding, Inc. (NFW) develops patented technologies based on the sustainable use of plants and natural fibres to create plastic-free, durable goods and textiles. NFW’s supply chains utilise renewable resources, waste feedstocks, and clean, closed-loop chemistries.
Paptic
Paptic manufactures bio-based alternative packaging materials that are made from sustainably sourced wood fibres, which can also be recycled alongside cardboard. This enables companies to reduce their plastic waste from packaging materials.
Nanollose
Nanollose’s sustainable Plant-Free rayon fibre is derived using microbes that convert biomass waste products from the beer, wine and liquid food industries into microbial cellulose, in a process that takes less than one month and requires very little land, water or energy. The microbial cellulose is then converted into rayon fibres using the Nanollose technology which is compatible with existing industry processing and manufacturing equipment.
Altmat
AltMat uses a proprietary technology consisting of the combination of mechanical, chemical and enzymatic processes to produce Altag, an industrial fit natural fibre made of agricultural residues from food crops (for example, residual stems of hemp) sourced directly from farmers and hemp producers.
Checkerspot
Checkerspot designs performance materials at a molecular level by optimising microbes to biomanufacture unique structural oils produced in nature, but not previously accessible at commercial scale. Materials (unique oils) are produced via closed system fermentation without harmful chemicals and have a lower carbon footprint than other petroleum or other plant based oils.
Polybion
Polybion is growing premium, next-generation materials designed with nature and manufactured with biology. Their first product, Celium™, is a premium alternative to animal-based leather and petroleum-derived synthetics. It is grown by feeding bacteria with agroindustrial fruit waste; the bacteria, in turn, creates cellulose, a natural polymer.
Orange Fiber
Orange Fiber patented and manufactures fabrics by repurposing waste from the citrus industry to create alternative cellulosic man-made fibres. Orange fiber does not release microplastics, has a reduced CO2 footprint compared to average environmental profiles of cellulose production and reduces need for virgin materials through waste utilisation.
Spinnova
Spinnova has developed a proprietary technology to mechanically convert pulp from wood or other waste sources into a new Spinnova fibre. Their process operates without the use of harmful chemicals typically used in conventional viscose fibre production, thus creating an opportunity for reduced impact.
Cocoon Biotech
Cocoon Biotech has developed a bio-technology platform designed to produce a bio-compatible silk protein from raw cocoon silk, post-consumer silk waste and supply chain waste. This gives a possible circualr recycling route for silk textiles thus reducing demand for virgin resources.
ZymoChem
ZymoChem offers bio-based materials powered by proprietary carbon conserving (C2) microbes that convert renewable feedstocks into high-value materials while radically minimising CO2 loss during the production phase. The efficiencies of their platform unlock superior economics – up to 50% lower cost than incumbents with a higher yield compared to today’s best in class biomanufacturing.
Ambercycle
Ambercycle is a textile-to-textile recycler that converts polyester textile waste into cycora yarns® (a regenerated alternative to virgin polyester) for apparel brands and manufacturers. Their process uses polyester textile waste as feedstock, which is then purified and further converted into polyester pellets to make the cycora yarn, out of which new clothes can be made – thus reducing demand for virgin materials.
MYCL
MYCL produces a leather like material by binding agricultural waste with mycelium – mushroom roots. The natural components of the product makes the product sturdy and lightweight which makes it possible to customise forms into various shapes and products. By using agricultural waste Myotech provides farmers with an additional income and keeps the waste from being burned.
Lucro
Lucro produces high quality recycled plastic waste to make products, ultimately seeking to close the loop. Lucro caters to big industries including retail, FMCG and automotive, exporting their products to the US and Europe.
Dryfiber
The DRYFIBER polymer chemistry involves applying a thin polymeric coating to textiles, creating a microscopically rough surface that acts as a chemical barrier. This coating repels oil-based stains while maintaining fabric texture and softness. DRYFIBER is ideal for industrial fabrics, apparel, upholstery, automotive textiles, and carpets. It can be dip or spray-coated, offering a high-performance, non-fluorinated alternative.
Paques Biomaterials
Paques Biomaterials converts organic residues, such as food waste and industrial wastewaters (e.g., from paper processing), into biopolymers that can replace polymers used in agricultural products, packaging and textiles. These biopolymers, called PHBVs, are marketed under the name Caleyda® and are home compostable and marine degradable.
Econic
Econic develop catalyst chemistry used to turn waste CO2 into raw material for the production of polyols. Econic can create new value from waste CO2 and significantly reduce the energy required for these reactions to occur, helping polyol manufacturers use the catalyst technology to manufacture products.
RePack
RePack is a reusable packaging innovator, creating and implementing a business model for ecommerce, where the packaging is sent back to the brand/retailer for re-utilization. Reusing packaging in this way reduces waste and carbon emissions of the packaging process.
Mango Materials
Mango Materials uses waste methane to produce PHA pellets which can be then either melt spun or injection moulded to make fibres or packaging respectively. PHA can be used as a replacement for conventional polyester, thus is a replacement for synthetic fibres and packaging which is compostable.
Circ
Circ is a textile-to-textile chemical recycler with the ability to recycle different types of textile waste (polyester-based, cellulosic-based and blended). In doing so, Circ produces virgin-equivalent outputs (like dissolving pulp for lyocell fibre production and polyester monomers for PET production) that can be sold downstream to produce new recycled materials.
Bananatex
Bananatex provides an alternative material for the textile industry made from 100% banana fibre. Abacá (Musa Textilis) banana plants grow in agroforestry environments in the Philippines, not requiring chemicals or additional water besides rainfall, to grow. The stalks of these plants are cut, the fibres are extracted and further processed to make a new yarn and fabric with the potential to replace synthetic materials like polyester (PET).
MycoTEX
MycoTEX offers an automated, seamless production technology to create custom-fit products out of biodegradable textiles made from mycelium. The technology reduces waste assoicated with cut & sew operations, and replaces plastics and leathers with compostable materials.
Ecovative
Ecovative utilises mycelium and agricultural waste streams to develop products with applications in food, fashion, beauty and other industries. The Ecovative Mycelium Foundry is built on an extensive library of fungal strains to test and perfect new mycological materials. Strains selected from this process go through their proprietary AirMycelium™ process to grow unique bio-materials fine-tuned for specific applications e.g. as leather alternatives.
Frumat
Frumat uses industrial waste apple pecting to create a leather-like material and other products which can be dyed naturally and tanned without chemically intensive techniques. This leather alternative has a reduced carbon footprint compared to cow leather, and eliminates any animal welfare issue.
Worn Again
Worn Again uses a solvent-based technology that can recover PET and cellulose from pure and blended poly-cotton fibres, with the resulting PET material free from dyes and other contaminants and restored to virgin equivalent quality/specification.
Danimer Scientific
Danimer Scientific specialises in converting plant-based oils into biodegradable polymers that serve as sustainable alternatives to traditional petroleum-based plastics. Their flagship product, Nodax® PHA, is utilised in various applications, including packaging, agricultural products, and textiles. Nodax® is both home compostable and marine degradable.
Virent
Virent uses its patented BioForming® technology to create the fuels and chemicals the world needs from a wide range of naturally occurring, renewable resources. Its patented catalytic chemistry converts biobased carbohydrate feedstocks into products molecularly identical to those made from petroleum. Virent’s technology can produce a range of fuel products, including gasoline, diesel, and jet fuel, as well as chemicals used for plastics, fibres and films.
Zydex
Zydex is a specialty chemicals company committed to the conservation of resources offering a diverse set of chemical technologies for the Textile, Agriculture, Pavement and Construction Industries. Zydex manufactures globally benchmarked pigment printing thickeners, dyeing & levelling chemicals, binders and additives.
Baldwin
Fuelled by 100 years of innovation, Baldwin Technology Company Inc. is a leading global manufacturer and supplier of innovative process automation, equipment, parts service and consumables for a number of industries, including printing, packaging, textiles, and electronics. Operating in 14 locations across 10 countries, Baldwin’s innovations have improved workflow automation and process efficiency.
Relevant Resources
Explore tools, news, reports, and insights at the forefront of creating a positive future for the fashion industry.
Bending The Adoption Curve: Next-gen Materials To Reach 8% Of Fiber Market By 2030
Understanding 'Bio' Material Innovations: A Primer for the Fashion Industry Report
The Next Generation of Materials... From Waste
In Conversation with Renewcell: The Innovator Turning Worn-out Clothes into Next-gen Materials
5 FAQS About ‘Leather’ Alternatives