In Conversation with Pili: Reducing the impact of Indigo
Image by Marie-Sarah Adentis for Pili
10 June 2025
Can you tell us about Pili, how it started, and what the organisation does?
Pili was founded in 2015 following a pedagogical project called “Grow Your Ink,” which aimed to raise awareness about the origins of the colours used in our daily lives and the environmental impact of their fossil-based production. Through this initiative, we recognised a strong interest from industry players in finding more sustainable alternatives. Realising we shared the same concerns and goals, we decided to launch Pili with a clear mission: to decarbonise the colour industry.
What problem is your innovation solving and how does the technology work?
Today, 99% of colours are derived from fossil fuels, with the colour industry generating over 200 million tonnes of CO₂ annually. Among its many applications, the textile industry—especially denim, with over 3 billion units sold each year—is one of the most polluting. Conventional indigo, the pigment behind denim’s iconic hue, not only relies on fossil resources but also requires toxic chemicals like aniline in its synthesis, posing risks to both human health and the environment.
Pili addresses these challenges by rethinking the pigment’s raw materials, replacing petroleum with more sustainable carbon sources: biomass. Our innovation combines industrial fermentation with organic chemistry to produce high-performance, low-impact colours for textiles, inks, polymers, paints, and coatings, paving the way for a safer and more sustainable colour industry.
What have been the biggest successes so far?
One of our most significant achievements has been the successful industrialisation of our process—scaling from R&D-scale to tonne-scale production. This milestone marks a critical step forward for both Pili and our partners, demonstrating the viability of our technology at a commercial scale.
On the business front, a standout success is our partnership with Citizens of Humanity, a California-based premium denim brand renowned for its commitment to sustainability. This long-term collaboration is a pivotal moment not only for Pili but for the broader denim industry. Together, we’ve launched the first commercially available garments dyed with our biobased indigo, featured in their Spring 2025 collections. By combining our sustainable dye with more sustainable fibres such as regenerative cotton, the collection sets a new standard for responsible fashion. The brand’s ambition to eventually transition all its denim production to Pili’s biobased indigo is a strong vote of confidence and a clear signal of growing market demand for sustainable alternatives.
What role does collaboration play in bringing innovations to scale?
Collaboration is absolutely essential when it comes to scaling innovation. Building a startup like Pili has required surrounding ourselves with the right expertise from the very beginning. We’ve worked closely with specialists in biotechnology, fermentation, chemistry, dyeing, and denim across France, Germany, Turkey and the U.S.—their insights have been key to accelerating our progress.
Collaborating with stakeholders throughout the denim supply chain has also allowed us to better understand customer needs and quickly adapt our solutions. These partnerships not only help refine our approach but also pave the way for setting new ecological benchmarks in the denim industry. Working with influential brands and ambassadors further amplifies our impact, bringing greater visibility and momentum to our mission.
How has Fashion for Good played a role in your journey so far?
Fashion for Good has connected us with key stakeholders in the textile industry, providing valuable access to networks, insights, and strategic information. Through our collaboration, we’ve been able to raise brand awareness and position Pili not only as an innovator but also as an emerging key player in the denim value chain. This visibility and support have been instrumental in accelerating our growth and refining our approach to industry collaboration.
What’s next for you?
We’re preparing for further collaboration with additional brand partners in 2026. Our focus is on scaling the adoption of Biobased Indigo, with the goal of establishing it as a new ecological standard in the denim industry. We continue to work closely with partners across the value chain to make sustainable indigo a must-have.
Lastly, what advice would you give consumers trying to be more sustainable?
We believe that true transformation in the fashion industry starts with informed choices. We encourage consumers to support brands that are leading the way toward a more sustainable and responsible future.
Choose denim that is made to last, crafted from high-quality materials, and designed with longevity in mind.
Look for labels that highlight sustainable fibres such as regenerative or recycled cotton. These materials reflect brands’ commitment to ethical sourcing, robust product standards, and their ability to adopt sustainable innovations such as Pili’s carbon-conscious colours. By choosing these brands, you’re not only wearing better denim, you’re helping shape the entire value chain.
Other Articles
In Conversation with SEFF: Reengineering Hemp into high performance material
Rethinking Denim: Designing Change From Fibre To Finish
