Without this mechanism, the premium cost could be passed through each tier of the value chain, compounding along the way. The decoupling mechanism aims to prevent this amplification (also referred to as ‘pancaking effect’), thus resulting in a total cost that’s lower than if the premium were carried through to the end product.

The premium decoupling mechanism is a financial mechanism designed to help next-generation, lower-impact materials achieve price parity with conventional materials.

It separates the price premium (the higher cost of the next-gen material) from the physical product early in the supply chain (e.g., at the fiber stage). This separation allows the material to move through the remaining stages of the supply chain at the same price as its conventional counterpart.

Brands will pay a fee to cover this cost, separated from the sourcing cost of the next-gen materials. This payment is funded directly at the innovator level (and redistributed for potential integration premiums at tier 4). Furthermore, brands who are able to tap into internal dedicated funds (e.g., innovation budget), outside of sourcing budget, can have the benefit of undisturbed product and sourcing margins.

The mechanism is not limited to a single material type but is applicable to materials that face a price premium (or transition cost) compared to their conventional counterparts.

While the primary benefit of PPT is reducing price premium amplification, or ‘pancaking’ through the supply chain, another significant benefit lies in enabling brands to have flexibility in terms of how they will fund the price premium of the innovation (e.g., through budgets outside of sourcing, such as sustainability or innovation budgets). 

In essence, the PPT mechanism can work for any lower-impact, higher-cost material where the objective is to decouple the price premium to drive volume adoption and accelerate its journey to price parity.

The mechanism behind the Price Parity Toolkit is designed to support innovators in the scale-up stage, during which premiums are a significant hurdle to adoption, by reducing the impact of price premiums and enabling brands to have flexibility in terms of budget sources for premiums. The mechanism is envisioned to be an interim solution, enabling innovators to faster reach pricing at par with or near conventional, by speeding up adoption and gaining more efficiencies within the supply chain. 

Once the innovation is able to flow through the supply chain without significant pricing hurdles, we envision the commercial process to be folded into business-as-usual practices, removing the need for PPT mechanism. 

Implementing the PPT mechanism for next-gen materials requires careful customs duty navigation. The standard basis for duties is the Transaction Value (the price paid for the goods). Generally, any premium fees tied to product volumes must be included in this customs value, which consequently increases the import duties. There might be the option to mitigate this impact by structuring the costs as separate, non-volume-based Service Fees (for services like advisory or traceability). These service fees can potentially be excluded from the customs valuation under the Separation Rule, depending on the exact nature of the service provided by the innovator to the brand. Regardless of the chosen financial structure, it’s essential to use legally drafted contracts and maintain detailed records and documentation for compliance.

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Brands should ensure their investment is applied to their materials by implementing and mandating a robust and complete use of a traceability system throughout the entire supply chain.

A traceability system can serve as the essential verification and accountability layer for the brand’s financial investment (the premium paid).

• Tracking and Verification: The system tracks and verifies material flows linked to the premium payments.
• Guarantee: It guarantees that the next-gen materials purchased with the investment are sourced and incorporated into the final garments as intended.

This ensures that the premium funds a verified material flow from the point of sourcing to the final product. Further details are to be found in step 8 of the guidelines.

Since premium decoupling is not yet standard practice, the PPT highlights key considerations including:

• Customs and tax implications
• Antitrust Guidance
• Contractual compliance

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The PPT outlines how brands can pay the premium fee and how those funds can be managed, including guidance on payment timelines and invoicing structures. Two main approaches are explored:

Via the innovator: Each brand pays the premium directly to the innovator, which is then distributed across relevant supply chain stages.

Via an intermediary: A separate entity collects premium fees from multiple brands and distributes them accordingly through the supply chain.