DW(O)R-X
Durable water- and oil-repellent repellency (DW(O)R) finishes are chemical treatments applied to textiles and footwear to keep materials dry, clean, breathable, and durable. Historically, these finishes have relied on per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). However, PFAS are highly persistent, accumulate in the environment and in human bodies, and are associated with harmful health and ecological effects. Increasing regulatory restrictions, combined with brand sustainability commitments and rising consumer awareness, are accelerating the shift toward PFAS-free alternatives.
What's the challenge?
Despite the momentum towards PFAS-free alternatives, several challenges remain. Current solutions often do not match the oil repellency and long-term durability of PFAS-based finishes. At the same time, there is no unified approach to assessing performance, and existing protocols do not always reflect real-world use, making meaningful comparisons between solutions difficult. In addition, current benchmarks are outdated. Originally developed with PFAS-based chemistries in mind, they no longer reflect what PFAS alternative solutions can realistically achieve. Updated benchmarks needed to identify leading solutions and better understand performance gaps to inform R&D and scale-up efforts. Finally, as the industry works to transition away from PFAS, it is essential to carefully assess alternative chemistries to minimise the risk of regrettable substitution and the replacement of one problematic substance with another.
Executive Summary
Project DW(O)R-X was initiated in response to the phase-out of PFAS-based finishes and the need for a clear understanding of the emerging PFAS alternative landscape. Without reliable, comparable data and a validation framework that reflects real-world use, brands risk uninformed sourcing decisions and potential regrettable substitution. The project aims to benchmark nine PFAS alternative DW(O)R finishes using a validation approach shaped by shared industry requirements. This includes a performance protocol designed to better reflect real-world durability through multi-condition testing, such as the addition of washing and abrasion, alongside the use of stains relevant to sportswear and outerwear.
Goals of the Project
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Test and refine a performance protocol that captures real-world durability through the integration of multi-condition testing (washing and abrasion) and relevant custom stains (soil, sunscreen, and sweat).
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Benchmark nine PFAS alternative solutions, ranging from early-stage to established chemistries, across performance, environmental impact, and cost.
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Generate comparable data to identify leading alternatives, clarify performance gaps, and provide a clearer view of the current landscape.
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Provide a shared reference point for the industry; brands and mills can use it to support internal decision-making, while supporting chemical companies in validating performance claims and guiding future product development and market strategies.
Innovation Partners
Ecosystem Partners
Project Partners
FAQs
Why has it been so difficult for the fashion industry to move towards suitable alternatives that are free-from PFAS?
A major hurdle is the lack of a direct one-to-one replacement for PFAS, which are renowned for their exceptional durability and ability to repel both water and oil. This makes it difficult for alternative solutions to match the performance required by the industry, particularly in demanding outdoor and sportswear applications. While the market is now seeing a wide range of alternative solutions, their performance varies significantly across different fabric archetypes and real-world conditions, making it difficult for brands to compare options in a consistent and meaningful way. Furthermore, existing industry benchmarks (originally designed with PFAS-based chemistries in mind) no longer reflect what alternatives can realistically achieve today. Project DW(O)R-X aims to bridge this gap by establishing updated benchmarks that clarify true performance capabilities and provide the necessary guidance to support future R&D and scale-up efforts.
How does the testing framework developed for Project DW(O)R-X aim to better reflect the real-world environment in which sports and outerwear garments will encounter?
To better reflect real-world conditions, the testing framework incorporates multi-condition testing. For example, conducting the standard water repellency spray test after 1, 5, 10, and 25 wash cycles establishes a durability curve that captures how performance degrades with laundering over time. In addition, the framework includes custom stains representative of real-world use, including soil, sunscreen, and sweat. These are used to assess the ease of cleaning through both wiping and laundering, offering a more realistic evaluation of performance against stains and maintenance under everyday conditions.
What is "regrettable substitution," and how does this project prevent it?
“Regrettable substitution” refers to the replacement of a chemical of concern with an alternative that is later found to have similar or new environmental and human health risks. This can occur when industries, under pressure to phase out certain substances, adopt alternatives without fully understanding their broader impacts. To minimise this risk, Project DW(O)R-X goes beyond assessing performance by incorporating chemical safety and impact assessments into its framework. This includes testing chemical formulations against the ZDHC MRSL, conducting impact screening to evaluate environmental footprint, and testing finished fabrics to verify the absence of chemicals of concern.
Relevant Resources
Behind the Break
Behind the Break is a multi-phase research initiative developed by Fashion for Good in collaboration with The Microfibre Consortium. The project takes a research-led approach to advance the fashion industry’s understanding of fibre fragmentation, addressing uncertainties in existing testing protocols and key knowledge gaps. By supporting the development of a more credible and consistent foundation, the initiative aims to enable stakeholders to make informed decisions and take decisive action to mitigate fibre fragment pollution, while leveraging the best available science.
Fashion for Good Launches Fibre Fragmentation Project - Behind the Break
Mass Balance Demonstrator
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Stretching Circularity
The Stretching Circularity Project aims to accelerate the development and adoption of lower-impact elastane solutions for the apparel industry through two workstreams. One workstream focuses on testing next-generation elastane materials made from alternative inputs, including bio-based materials and other feedstocks. The other focuses on testing regenerated elastane made through emerging recycling innovations. Both workstreams follow a pilot-scale validation approach to generate comparable data on performance, impact, economic feasibility and scalability.
Other Projects
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Fashion for Good expanded its Sorting for Circularity framework to address the challenge of sorting for rewearable textiles to understand better their resale potential and the demand across the second-hand market. We launched an 18-month initiative in January 2024 in collaboration with Circle Economy, brand partners adidas, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co. and Zalando to enhance the sorting of rewearable textiles using innovative AI technologies. The project seeks to improve garment recovery for resale, promoting circularity in the fashion industry.
Behind the Break
Behind the Break is a multi-phase research initiative developed by Fashion for Good in collaboration with The Microfibre Consortium. The project takes a research-led approach to advance the fashion industry’s understanding of fibre fragmentation, addressing uncertainties in existing testing protocols and key knowledge gaps. By supporting the development of a more credible and consistent foundation, the initiative aims to enable stakeholders to make informed decisions and take decisive action to mitigate fibre fragment pollution, while leveraging the best available science.
Feedstock Activation Europe: FAE
Project FAE (Feedstock Activation Europe) is an initiative led by Fashion for Good to channel post-consumer textiles as feedstock for textile-to-textile recycling at scale. It addresses a core gap in the value chain: today, sorters cannot viably prepare post-consumer material at the price, quantity and quality recyclers require, leaving most non-rewearable textiles with no viable destination.
