Renewable Carbon Project
The aim of the project was to test and validate the technical feasibility of the different PHA polymer and composite resins to make mono and multifilament fibres. Fashion for Good worked with the Nonwovens Innovation & Research Institute (NIRI) to run the melt spinning trials to allow for a comparative evaluation. The initial scope of the project also included end of use testing including degradation testing. However the project partners decided to prioritise additional spinning trials over degradation testing.
Problem Statement
Polyester dominates 52% of the global fibre market. As the world’s most widely used fibre, it also contributes heavily to the 73% of textiles that are landfilled or incinerated each year. Being a synthetic, petroleum-based fibre, polyester doesn’t naturally decompose, and its production further drives fossil fuel dependence.
Renewable carbon sources like biomass and carbon capture and utilisation (CCU) polymers are gaining momentum as sustainable alternatives. However, more research is needed to assess their environmental impact, technical viability, commercial feasibility, and country-specific policies for end-of-use solutions. One promising renewable alternative is polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHA), a family of polymers derived through bacterial fermentation of waste feedstocks. PHAs are unique in that they can biodegrade in both marine and compost environments, yet further development is required to adapt PHAs for fibre production.
To date, PHA’s most established applications include packaging, food services, agriculture, and medical products. Producing high-performing fibres from PHA, however, has proven challenging and requires additional research and development.
Executive Summary
Fashion for Good launched the Renewable Carbon Project in June 2021 with catalytic funding from the Laudes Foundation in collaboration with Bestseller, Norrona, PVH Corp. and the Fabrics Division of W. L. Gore & Associates.
The project focused on running lab scale trials using the PHA polymer pellets produced by the participating innovators, Danimer Scientific, IBANNS, Fullcycle Bioplastics, Paques Biomaterials and Aircarbon (formerly Newlight Technologies). The hypothesis was that the trials would be initially run to produce monofilament, moving to multi filament once mono filament was successfully produced.
The results demonstrated that it was not feasible to make fibres using a 100% PHA polymer, all innovators blended the PHA resin with other biopolymers in order to enable the polymers to be melt spun. NIRI were able to produce multifilament yarns using some of the innovators’ resins but further technology developments will be necessary to improve the melt drawability of the material and avoid breakages.
As the project evolved, partners opted to continue melt-spinning trials, postponing degradation testing to concentrate on enhancing the technical performance of the polymers. During this period, Fullcycle Bioplastics went into administration and ceased operations.
Goals of the Project
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Conduct a qualitative and quantitative due diligence assessment
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Test the technical feasibility of using PHA polymers and blended composites to make monofilament and multifilament fibres with a third party institute
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Assess the end of use pathways for the PHA polymers and blended composites by conducting degradation testing with a third party institute
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Project Results
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It was not possible to make mono or multifilament fibres using 100% PHA resins, all innovators produced a resin which was a blend of PHA and other biopolymers.
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Blends with other biopolymers might improve the heat sensitivity and the tackiness of the fibres, ultimately improving spinnability.
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There was success in producing mono filament fibres and some success making multi filament fibres.
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The road for commercial scale up of PHA fibres will be a long one and significant investment will be needed to further validate fibre applications.
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End of use testing will be key in assessing whether the final resins (likely a blend of biopolymers) are marine degradable and home compostable.
Stakeholders Involved
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Catalytic Funder: Laudes Foundation
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Brands: Bestseller, Norrona, PVH Corp., W.L.Gore
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Innovators: FullCycle Bioplastics, IBANNS, Aircarbon (previously Newlight Technologies), Danimer Scientific, Paques Biomaterials
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Technology Partner: NIRI
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Relevant Resources
Fashion for Good Launches The Renewable Carbon Textiles Project
Consortium Plans PHA Fibres For Fashion
Amsterdam-based Fashion for Good is launching the Renewable Carbon Textiles Project, bringing together a powerful consortium to accelerate the development of polyhydroxyalkanoates or PHA polymer fibres – a promising biosynthetic alternative to fossil based fibres with the potential to reduce carbon emissions in the fashion supply chain.
Other Projects
Feedstock Assessment for Biosynthetic Innovation
Feedstock Assessment for Biosynthetic Innovation, an initiative in collaboration with Bestseller and On aimed at accelerating the industry’s shift towards alternatives to fossil-fuel polymers. The assessment will be conducted in partnership with industry experts, the Nova Institute.
Piloting a Circularity Solution in E-commerce
This project was led by Fashion for Good, together with Zalando and circular.fashion, a Fashion for Good alumni innovator. The objective was to test the circularity.ID, a traceability solution designed by circular.fashion to increase resale and recycling opportunities for clothing at scale.
Sorting for Circularity Rewear
Fashion for Good expanded its Sorting for Circularity framework to address the challenge of sorting for rewearable textiles to understand better their resale potential and the demand across the second-hand market. We launched an 18-month initiative in January 2024 in collaboration with Circle Economy, brand partners adidas, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co. and Zalando to enhance the sorting of rewearable textiles using innovative AI technologies. The project seeks to improve garment recovery for resale, promoting circularity in the fashion industry.
