The Great Unlock: closing the innovation commercialisation gap through project finance solutions

The Great Unlock: closing the innovation commercialisation gap through project finance solutions

11/10/2023

The fashion industry stands at a crucial juncture, with innovation paving the way for a more sustainable future. Over the past decade, we have witnessed significant strides in brand commitments, regulatory frameworks, and technological advancements. However, despite these positive trends, scaling these innovations remains a formidable challenge. “The Great Unlock” explores the essential role of project finance as a key enabler in bridging the commercialisation gap, ensuring that groundbreaking solutions can transition from concept to industry-wide implementation.

Executive Summary

The journey towards a net-zero fashion industry is dependent on scaling next-generation materials, processing, and recycling solutions. While early-stage funding for research and piloting exists, a critical funding gap persists during the commercialisation phase, requiring approximately $400 billion—half of which must be debt financing. Project finance emerges as a strategic tool to unlock this capital by isolating project risks, improving creditworthiness, and ensuring structured funding solutions that attract investors. This report highlights key financing mechanisms, roles of various stakeholders, and actionable insights to accelerate the adoption of sustainable innovations in the industry.

Goals of the Report

  • Identify the key financial challenges hindering the commercialisation of sustainable fashion innovations.

  • Highlight the role of project finance as a viable funding mechanism to scale innovation.

  • Provide best practices and frameworks for structuring successful project finance agreements.

  • Outline actionable recommendations for stakeholders to drive industry-wide transformation.

  • Foster collaboration among brands, financiers, and innovators to unlock critical funding opportunities.

Conclusion and Recommendations

To accelerate the adoption of sustainable innovations, stakeholders must embrace project finance as a core strategy. Innovators should plan early, aligning their capital strategy with technical milestones. Brands must signal demand through offtake agreements, while supply chain partners and financiers need to actively support scalable projects. Regulatory frameworks should further incentivise sustainable investments. By taking bold and collaborative action, the industry can overcome financial barriers and pave the way for a truly sustainable future.

Glossary

  • Project Finance – A financing structure where the project’s cash flow and assets serve as collateral, rather than the parent company’s balance sheet.

  • Offtake Agreement – A contract between a producer and buyer ensuring future product purchase, providing revenue certainty for the project.

  • Debt Financing – Borrowed capital that must be repaid over time, typically used to fund infrastructure and scaling projects.

  • Next-Generation Materials – Innovative, sustainable alternatives to conventional textiles, including bio-based and recycled fibres.

  • Scaling Journey – The process of transitioning an innovation from pilot to full-scale commercial adoption.

  • Structured Financing – A method of funding that pools various financial instruments to mitigate risk and improve investment appeal.

Contacts for the project

  • Fashion for Good

    • Katrin Ley – Managing Director
    • Frans Jooste – Investment Manager
  • Spring Lane Capital

    Jordan Kasarjian – Associate

    Nathaniel Lowbeer-Lewis – Principal

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