Behind the Break 2.0
Behind the Break 2.0 is a targeted research initiative focused on addressing fibre fragmentation in textiles, building directly on the work started in Phase 1.0 (2024–2025), which tested the strengths and limitations of different methods used to measure fibre loss, identifying how much results vary between labs, and exploring what drives fibre shedding across three fabric types: cotton knit, cotton woven, and polyester knit. Phase 2.0 seeks to increase confidence in data quality, consolidate and refine existing testing approaches and knowledge across selected fabric archetypes, and deepen supplier engagement to support wider data collection within the space.
Introduction
Behind the Break 2.0 is a targeted research initiative designed to strengthen confidence in fibre loss data, consolidate existing knowledge, and deepen supplier engagement across the textile and fashion value chain. The project is structured around four core workstreams: a multi-lab Round Robin to pinpoint variations in testing approaches; the identification and validation of a suitable reference fabric that labs can use for calibration; a comparative assessment of two sample preparation techniques (PU bonding and lock-stitch); and focused knowledge-building activities through expert engagement on selected fabric archetypes, followed by structured supplier onboarding to increase sample size and diversity.
Together, these workstreams aim to give fibre fragmentation research within the textile and fashion industry a more consistent, credible foundation to support the development of actionable findings.
What's the challenge?
Gravimetric methods used to measure fibre loss (including ISO 4484-1 and the TMC Test Method) enable consistent comparisons between fabrics. However, Phase 1.0 revealed that data variability between labs can occur from variations in laboratory practices, rather than flaws in the methods themselves.
How fabric samples are prepared before testing must also be carefully considered as fibres released from cut edges can contribute to the total fibre loss measured. The lock-stitch hem is currently the most widely used approach for sample preparation, however, there is a need to explore whether alternative techniques may be more suitable across different fabric types. Any method adopted should not only minimise edge-related fibre loss, but also be evaluated for accessibility, cost, and ease of implementation at scale.
Finally, while Phase 1.0 provided valuable insights into the drivers of fibre shedding, the sample size was limited and the variables too interconnected to draw definitive conclusions. Increasing engagement with suppliers will help increase the sample size and support more in-depth technical discussions on underexplored fabric types.
Executive Summary
Behind the Break 2.0 is a targeted research initiative designed to strengthen confidence in fibre loss data, consolidate existing knowledge, and expand supplier engagement across the textile and fashion value chain. The project is structured around four core workstreams: a multi-lab Round Robin to pinpoint variations in testing practices; the identification of a suitable reference fabric that labs can introduce for calibration; a comparative assessment of two sample preparation techniques (PU bonding and lock-stitch); and focused knowledge-building activities on select fabric archetypes.
Together, these workstreams aim to give fibre fragmentation research within the textile and fashion industry a more consistent, credible foundation to support the development of actionable findings.
Goals of the Project
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Reduce data variance across laboratories: Multi-lab Round Robin to identify sources of data variability. Findings will inform the development of a Protocol Guidance Document to support rigorous and consistent testing across laboratories
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Identify a Reference Fabric for Calibration: Identify a standardised multi-fibre reference fabric that demonstrates reproducible shedding to be introduced prior to testing at laboratories for calibration purposes.
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Exploration of Sample Preparation Methods: Conduct a comparative assessment of sample preparation methods (lock-stitch vs. PU bonding) across fibre loss, accessibility, ease of use, cost, scalability, and fabric suitability.
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Knowledge Building: Map “high-risk” or technically challenging fabric types and conduct focus groups to align on current knowledge, testing practices, and priority research areas. Simultaneously, engage suppliers through targeted deep dives and supporting documentation to expand awareness, participation, and future data collection.
Innovation Partners
Project Partners
Implementation Partners
Relevant Resources
What are microfibres and microplastics in fashion?
In Conversation with NFW: Creating biomaterials that support plastic-free design
Pilot Project to Tackle Plastic Polybag Waste in Fashion Industry
Recycling company First Mile has partnered with global sustainable fashion innovation platform Fashion for Good on a new pilot scheme that aims to tackle the issue of plastic polybag waste in the fashion industry.
Can we recycle polyester?
In Conversation with CuRe Technology: How Can We Create a Fully Circular Polyester Chain?
FAQs
Why is Phase 2.0 not focusing on identifying the drivers of fibre fragmentation (root cause analysis)?
Phase 2.0 is not prioritising root cause analysis because Phase 1.0 revealed significant lab-to-lab variability with the gravimetric method. This variability appears to result from inconsistencies in protocol adherence across laboratories, rather than from flaws in the methods themselves. Addressing these inconsistencies and increasing supplier engagement is essential to directly support the ongoing root cause studies being conducted by the The Microfibre Consortium or any future phases conducted with Fashion for Good.
How does this work support the ongoing work conducted with The Microfibre Consortium?
Phase 2.0 supports The Microfibre Consortium ’s work in several ways:
- The Round Robin will uncover sources of data variance between laboratories, supporting the development of a Protocol Guidance Document that the TMC can provide to labs performing the TMC test method.
- A suitable multi-fibre reference fabric will be identified for calibration purposes, helping labs verify their testing approaches before analysing unknown samples.
- Onboarding additional suppliers to the topic of fibre fragmentation will expand sample size and diversity for future root cause analyses. Suppliers also bring valuable technical expertise on their respective fabric archetypes, which can inform and support subsequent research in this area.
Which fabric types will be targeted within this research?
Fabric selection may vary across workstreams and is still being refined with the project partner group. Phase 1.0 partners have highlighted denim and basic fleece as fabric archetypes to explore within the sample preparation and knowledge-building workstreams. At the onset of Phase 2.0, this will be complemented by a mapping of additional fabric archetypes that the partner group wishes to prioritise. These will include fabrics that are either under-researched or lack clear guidance on optimal handling and testing protocols
Other Projects
Sorting for Circularity Rewear
Fashion for Good expanded its Sorting for Circularity framework to address the challenge of sorting for rewearable textiles to understand better their resale potential and the demand across the second-hand market. We launched an 18-month initiative in January 2024 in collaboration with Circle Economy, brand partners adidas, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co. and Zalando to enhance the sorting of rewearable textiles using innovative AI technologies. The project seeks to improve garment recovery for resale, promoting circularity in the fashion industry.
Behind the Break
Behind the Break is a multi-phase research initiative developed by Fashion for Good in collaboration with The Microfibre Consortium. The project takes a research-led approach to advance the fashion industry’s understanding of fibre fragmentation, addressing uncertainties in existing testing protocols and key knowledge gaps. By supporting the development of a more credible and consistent foundation, the initiative aims to enable stakeholders to make informed decisions and take decisive action to mitigate fibre fragment pollution, while leveraging the best available science.
Feedstock Activation Europe: FAE
Project FAE (Feedstock Activation Europe) is an initiative led by Fashion for Good to channel post-consumer textiles as feedstock for textile-to-textile recycling at scale. It addresses a core gap in the value chain: today, sorters cannot viably prepare post-consumer material at the price, quantity and quality recyclers require, leaving most non-rewearable textiles with no viable destination.
