Ecovative Collaborative Pilot
The aim of the pilot was to develop and test the next generation of mycelium-based alternatives to leather and foam materials. This project, spanning from December 2021 to March 2024, involved collaboration with major fashion brands to create sustainable materials suitable for consumer goods.
Problem Statement
Leather production can have varying environmental impacts depending on the practices and standards employed. While some traditional leather is produced using responsible and sustainable methods, there are also growing concerns around its environmental footprint. While there are multiple “vegan” leather alternatives available on the market, many of them contain synthetic materials, have worse performance metrics than conventional leather, or are not available at scale. These partly plastic materials cannot be recycled and fewer still are compostable. Alongside this, synthetic foams, often made from polyurethane, are made from petroleum, a non-renewable virgin resource.
There are lots of opportunities for innovation in both leather and foam alternatives: Ecovative’s petrochemical-free mycelium hides and foam alternative promises to be a more sustainable alternative, grown in a fraction of time compared to animal leather, and with minimal resources.
Executive Summary
The Ecovative Collaborative Pilot was launched in December 2021 in collaboration with Bestseller, Pangaia, PVH Corp., Reformation and Vivobarefoot alongside manufacturing partner Ecco. The pilot aimed to test, refine, and scale Ecovative’s Forager AirLoom™ hides and MycoFlex™ foam. The primary goal was to develop sustainable, scalable alternatives to traditional leather and synthetic foam, minimising environmental impacts. Through collaboration with PVH Corp., Bestseller, Vivobarefoot, Pangaia, and Reformation, the project successfully scaled the production of these materials and demonstrated commercial viability.
Goals of the Project
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Develop and test mycelium-based alternatives to leather (Forager AirLoom™ hides) and foam (MycoFlex™ foam).
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Refine these materials for scale-up and commercial production.
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Collaborate with brand partners to produce concept products.
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Ensure commercial-scale production of these materials for future consumer goods.
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Project Results
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Validation of mycelium farming and tanning at scale: Ecovative developed a scaled supply chain within the EU (Netherlands) including a commercial farm partner and leading tannery (ECCO Leather) that enabled larger production volumes of raw mycelium and finished products.
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Growing conditions impact material characteristics: Through the Mycelium Foundry One, Ecovative demonstrated that the performance of the final material can be successfully altered by changing the growing conditions to produce a range of products.
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Promising results demonstrate multiple application areas: Material performance testing showed significant improvement for Forager AirLoom™ hides and MycoFlex™ Foam by increasing product uniformity and nearly tripling the strength of the raw mycelium.
Next Steps
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Co-development is key: Ecovative continues to collaborate with several brand partners individually focusing on product development.
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Further validation of product at scale: Ecovative and its regional supply chain partner continue to focus on scale and product quality.
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Products on the market in 2025: Along with brand partners in and out of the pilot, Ecovative is focused on bringing Forager AirLoom™ hides and MycoFlex™ foams to consumer products on the market in 2025.
Stakeholders Involved
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BESTSELLER
Relevant Resources
Ecovative
Ecovative utilises mycelium and agricultural waste streams to develop products with applications in food, fashion, beauty and other industries. The Ecovative Mycelium Foundry is built on an extensive library of fungal strains to test and perfect new mycological materials. Strains selected from this process go through their proprietary AirMycelium™ process to grow unique bio-materials fine-tuned for specific applications e.g. as leather alternatives.
Ecovative Launches Fashion for Good Cooperative with BESTSELLER and PVH Corp.
In Conversation with Ecovative: The Innovator Unlocking the Power of Mycelium
Meet the Innovator: Ecovative
PVH, Bestseller Get ‘Priority Access’ to Ecovative’s Mycelium ‘Forager Hides’
PVH and Bestseller are first in line to trial Ecovative’s mycelium “Forager” hides in a new cooperative revealed today. Alongside the brands, Amsterdam-based nonprofit Fashion for Good (which Ecovative has been working with for the past three years) is also a strategic partner as Ecovative refines production.
Pangaia, Vivobarefoot, Ecovative to Research Mycelium in Fashion
The collective mycelium research pairs Vivobarefoot and Pangaia with Ecovative’s team of mycologists, engineers and designers, to develop a line of fungus-based, petroleum-free foams and hides for their products. It also sees the three join the Fashion for Good Cooperative.
The Race for Fashion’s Leather Alternatives Heats Up
Ecovative wants to become the first to offer a plant-based leather alternative that’s ready to scale, and could up the ante in fashion’s race for leather replacements that are both more sustainable and higher quality, with a more attractive look and feel, than plastic-based vegan materials.
“Oftentimes with these different materials, you get a proof of concept that comes out and it takes time for these materials to then scale,” says Georgia Parker, innovation manager at Fashion for Good.
Other Projects
Fibre Club
Fashion for Good’s Fibre Club unites brands and innovators to fast-track the use of sustainable materials in the fashion sector. These partnerships offer brands early access to cutting-edge fibres, ensuring beneficial supply agreements and easier incorporation into their supply chains. Fibre Club aims to not only shift the cost structure but to help align brands in a very fragmented and competitive industry.
Advanced Processing Matrix
The Advanced Processing Matrix (APM) aims to continue Fashion for Good’s efforts to accelerate the shift from wet to mostly dry processing in the fashion industry by validating innovative textile processing technologies with potential to drive CO₂e reduction, alongside improvements in water and chemical usage. The tool serves as the knowledge resource for Future Forward Factories aiming to transform facilities into near Net-0.
Behind the Break
“Behind the Break,” is a project aimed at exploring textile fibre fragmentation. The research aims to identify the root causes of fibre shedding during manufacturing, enhance existing test methods, and inform future industry best practices and policies to reduce textile pollution. A report accompanies the project, providing an overview of existing knowledge gaps, recent developments, critical insights, and emerging opportunities for meaningful action within the fashion and textile industry.
