
From Waste to Black Pigment
The aim of the project was to validate the use of black pigments derived from waste materials to replace conventional carbon black from virgin fossil fuels in dope dyeing applications. The aim is to reduce the environmental impact of textile dyeing by using renewable, eco-friendly pigments sourced from waste.
Problem Statement
Carbon black, the most commonly used black pigment in textiles, is sourced from fossil fuels, contributing to significant environmental degradation. The fashion industry requires a more sustainable, renewable solution to minimise its ecological impact.
Executive Summary
Fashion for Good launched this project in February 2022 in collaboration with brand partners Bestseller, Kering, PVH Corp. and manufacturing partners Birla Cellulose and Paradise Textiles. The project has two main workstreams covering man-made cellulosics and polyester dope dyeing, using a stage-gate approach to validate at a lab then pilot scale.
Through the trials the project partners were able to gain valuable insights around the key levers needed to utilise each of the pigments in both polyester and MMC applications. These include the need for the particle size of the pigment to be between a specific range and the volumes required to achieve the necessary colour fastness.
The trials also demonstrated that each of the innovators pigment was more suited to a particular fibre type which has also provided them with additional strategic insight into which application areas they should focus on.
The project will conclude in Q1’25. The remaining scope of the project includes the final pilot trials as well as the screening LCA which will be conducted by Fashion for Good’s Impact Team. Alongside this the team will work closely with the manufacturing partners and innovators to scope and validate the business case for utilising these pigments in this application.
Goals of the Project
-
Validate the use of biobased black pigments from waste feedstock for dope dyeing applications and ensure they meet the necessary performance requirements
-
Test the different pigments at a lab and pilot scale in man made cellulosic and polyester dope dyeing applications
-
Conduct a Screening LCA of each of the participating innovators and benchmark against conventional dyestuff
-
Build the business case for using bio based black pigments within these application areas
-
Stakeholders Involved
-
Brands: BESTSELLER, Kering, PVH Corp.
-
Innovators: Graviky Labs, Living Ink, Nature Coatings
-
Manufacturers: Birla Cellulose, Paradise Textiles
-
-
-
Relevant Resources

From Waste to Black Pigment

In Conversation with Living Ink: Turning Biomass Waste Into Value
Other Projects

Advanced Processing Matrix
The Advanced Processing Matrix (APM) aims to continue Fashion for Good’s efforts to accelerate the shift from wet to mostly dry processing in the fashion industry by validating innovative textile processing technologies with potential to drive CO₂e reduction, alongside improvements in water and chemical usage. The tool serves as the knowledge resource for Future Forward Factories aiming to transform facilities into near Net-0.

Behind the Break
“Behind the Break,” is a project aimed at exploring textile fibre fragmentation. The research aims to identify the root causes of fibre shedding during manufacturing, enhance existing test methods, and inform future industry best practices and policies to reduce textile pollution. A report accompanies the project, providing an overview of existing knowledge gaps, recent developments, critical insights, and emerging opportunities for meaningful action within the fashion and textile industry.

Closing the Footwear Loop
The “Closing the Footwear Loop” project is a major initiative led by Fashion for Good, bringing together 17 leading fashion and footwear brands and their existing circularity programs to tackle the complex challenges of circularity in the footwear industry. The project aims to transform the current linear “take-make-dispose” model into a circular one.