From Waste to Black Pigment
The aim of the project was to validate the use of black pigments derived from waste materials to replace conventional carbon black from virgin fossil fuels in dope dyeing applications. The aim is to reduce the environmental impact of textile dyeing by using renewable, eco-friendly pigments sourced from waste.
What's the challenge?
Carbon black, the most commonly used black pigment in textiles, is derived from fossil fuels and contributes significantly to environmental degradation through energy-intensive production and associated emissions, while also posing health risks if not handled properly. Its widespread use reinforces the textile industry’s reliance on non-renewable resources and contributes to the overall carbon footprint of textile manufacturing.
As the fashion industry seeks to reduce its environmental impact, bio-based pigments derived from waste streams, such as industrial carbon, algae, or wood, offer a promising alternative. While not yet widely adopted in dope dyeing, their successful integration could help decrease fossil fuel dependency, lower emissions, and support a more circular approach to coloration.
Executive Summary
Launched in 2022 by Fashion for Good and industry partners, the Black Pigment Project aimed to replace synthetic black dyes in dope dyeing applications with sustainable pigments derived from waste materials like industrial carbon, algae, and wood waste.
The biogenic pigments were evaluated on MMCF and rPET substrates through a stage-gate approach, with successful lab and pilot trials validating their potential for commercial dope dyeing applications. The alternative pigments achieved performance levels comparable to conventional synthetic dyes in terms of yarn quality, tensile strength, and colour fastness. The pigments demonstrated compatibility across the value chain, from fibre to yarn to fabric, with successful processing in bulk through spinning, knitting, and finishing. Performance was comparable to conventional synthetic dyes, delivering comparable fibre and yarn quality alongside excellent colour fastness.
While full-fabric colouration through conventional dyeing presents cost and technical challenges, dope dyeing offers a viable commercial pathway. Future success will depend on scaling up, optimising processes, vertically integrating steps such as in-house pigment milling, forming strategic partnerships near manufacturing sites, co-locating with waste-feedstock suppliers, and aggregating demand to reach minimum order volumes to accelerate adoption of lower-impact dyeing solutions.
Goals of the Project
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Validate the use of biobased black pigments from waste feedstock for dope dyeing applications and ensure they meet the necessary performance requirements
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Test the different pigments at a lab and pilot scale in man-made cellulosic and polyester dope dyeing applications
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Conduct a Screening LCA of each of the participating innovators and benchmark against conventional dyestuff
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Build the business case for using bio-based black pigments within these application areas
Timeline
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August - September 2023
MMCF workstream Phase I – Lab trials
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February - October 2025
MMCF workstream Phase II – Pilot trials
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April - December 2025
rPET workstream Phase I – Lab trials
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January - March 2026
rPET workstream Phase II – Pilot trials
Project Results
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Dope dyeing showed potential for biogenic black pigments, enabling consistent fibre-level colouration while avoiding the handfeel limitations associated with printing. Across fibres, yarns, and fabrics, the trials achieved performance broadly aligned with industry standards, confirming good technical feasibility and positioning dope dyeing as a promising route for scale-up.
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Pigment preparation was identified as the most critical technical factor. Performance depended heavily on particle size, dispersion, and viscosity control, particularly for rPET where coarse particles increased melt viscosity and clogging risk. Improved milling and sub-micron particle consistency are key for reliable processing and colour performance.
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Process and yarn selection strongly influenced results. Final colour performance and shade depth are strongly influenced by material construction and pigment loading, and finer, uneven yarn counts can amplify irregularities. Coarser yarns and heavier fabric constructions might better support higher pigment uptake and deeper, more consistent black shades. As final quality is affected by fibre properties, alignment between intended application, material construction, and pigment dosage is critical from the outset.
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The trials also provided important strategic insights for commercialisation. Results highlighted dope dyeing as a viable pathway for scaling biogenic black pigments, while identifying the need for substrate-specific optimisation and a clearer understanding of acceptable colour variability, with future commercial viability dependent on scale-up, end-to-end process optimisation, and closer vertical integration across the value chain.
Call to Action
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1.
Technical optimisation and scale-up trials
Conduct larger-scale trials incorporating key learnings gained from previous work, around finer pigment milling, improved dispersion, adjusted pigment dosage, and coarser yarn counts. Additional testing could evaluate alternative spinning methods to further optimise yarn quality, and fastness performance. -
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Commercial validation and market engagement
Progress discussions on brand engagement and commercial orders, while building a clearer understanding of acceptable colour variability, target applications, and performance expectations. This will help align technical development with realistic pathways to market adoption. -
3.
Business model and scale-up assessment
Continue evaluating commercialisation strategies for biogenic black pigments, including co-location with feedstock/waste-stream providers, optimisation of MOQ strategy and distribution networks, and elaboration on the commercialisation pathways identified to support future scalability and cost reduction.
Innovation Partners
Project Partners
Innovators
Implementation Partners
FAQs
What is dope dyeing and why focus on this instead of conventional dyeing?
Dope dyeing is a method of colouring man-made fibres by adding pigment directly into the polymer melt before fibre extrusion. This approach can significantly reduce water, energy, and chemical use compared to conventional dyeing. While dope dyeing is an established process, the use of bio-based or waste-derived pigments at scale remains largely unexplored.
Can waste-derived pigments match the performance of conventional carbon black?
Yes, the project demonstrated that with proper formulation and processing, these pigments can meet industry standards for colour, fastness, and mechanical performance.
What are the main barriers to scaling these solutions?
Key challenges include achieving consistent pigment particle size, ensuring compatibility across different fibre types, validating environmental claims, and building a strong commercial case for adoption.
Relevant Resources
From Waste to Black Pigment
In Conversation with Living Ink: Turning Biomass Waste Into Value
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