Problem Statement
Next-gen materials offer a vital solution for future business growth and the achievement of the fashion industries goals.
Next-gen materials present significant opportunities during a time of mounting challenges, including climate change, textile waste accumulation, geopolitical turbulence, tightening regulations and commodity competition. However, as of today, next-gen materials – make up less than 1% of global fibre production.
The scaling of next-generation materials is hindered by financial, technical, and operational obstacles. Overcoming these challenges is key to achieving the transition the fashion industry needs towards next-gen materials – and that is what Fashion for Good is setting out to do.
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How are we addressing this area?
Our report, Scaling Next-Gen Materials in Fashion: An Executive Guide, reveals that next-gen materials could represent 8% of the total fibre market by 2030, equivalent to approximately 13 million tonnes. (Note: This analysis doesn’t include leather alternatives)
Scaling next-gen materials requires both individual brand action and industry-wide collaboration across three primary levers: Demand, cost & capital. Fashion for Good’s initiatives support the industry across those levers in order to bend the adoption curve and reduce the cost of the transition.
Our Initiatives
Through our work in next-gen materials we aim to enable promising innovators to successfully move from lab/pilot scale to commercial scale. Our activities span across 3 pillars:
INNOVATION SCOUTING
Where we continuously track emerging material developments to identify high-potential next-gen innovations that can advance through our innovation pipeline.
Thematic Landscapes
COLLABORATIVE VALIDATION
Where brands, innovators and suppliers jointly test next-gen materials to validate performance and impact, de-risking adoption by sharing costs and lessons learned.
COMMERCIALISATION & SCALING
Where we co-create commercial models addressing key scaling barriers, operationalising them with innovators, brands and suppliers to accelerate market adoption.
Next-Gen Material Definitions
Next-gen materials are innovative materials with desired improved environmental outcomes aiming to solve complex sustainability and circularity challenges faced by the industry. For a full definition, please check our our report, Scaling Next-Gen Materials in Fashion: An Executive Guide.
At Fashion for Good, our work is currently focused on the following categories of next-gen materials:
Recycling
Integrated recycling
Recycling processes that combine mechanical and chemical methods used to process cotton and polyester textile waste.
T2T (Textile-to-Textile) chemical recycling PET
Chemical recycling is a generic term that includes several recycling processes (solvent processing, depolymerisation, gasification). Depending on recycling processes, energy consumption, yield and output vary broadly; reaction outputs are syngas, monomers, polymers. The recycling process produces substances that can be used as raw material to manufacture new material. PET chemical recycling uses PET rich textile feedstock and one of the following processes: glycolysis, hydrolysis, or methanolysis to break the polyester down to the monomer level. Each of these processes produces a different monomer output which will then require repolymerisation to PET.
T2T chemical recycling PA
Chemical recycling is a generic term that includes several recycling processes (solvent processing, depolymerisation, gasification). Depending on recycling processes, energy consumption, yield and output vary broadly; reaction outputs are syngas, monomers, and polymers. The recycling process produces substances that can be used as raw material to manufacture new material. Nylon recycling processes nylon-rich textile waste through chemical recycling, breaking it down into monomers which are then repolymerised to create new polyamides (nylon).
MMCF
T2T chemical recycling MMCF
The chemical recycling process produces substances that can be used as raw material to manufacture new material. Cellulosic chemical recycling uses cellulose rich (for example, cotton) textile waste feedstock through solvent processing to create a manmade cellulosic pulp/fibre.
Alternative processing MMCF
Alternatives to MMCF processing with hypothesised reduced impact (for example, fewer chemicals) when compared to conventional viscose or other MMCF processes. Examples include utilisation of ionic liquids as a solvent or mechnophysical techniques.
Alternative feedstock MMCF
Utilisation of alternative feedstocks (nontextile waste) to produce pulp for MMCF production. Examples include agri-residue and bacterial cellulose.
Waste Types
Postindustrial textile waste
Any waste that gets generated as a by-product of industrial processes such as milling, spinning, printing and garmenting. This waste is a subset of the preconsumer waste.
Preconsumer textile waste
Preconsumer waste includes all postindustrial waste as well as any leftover/unsold materials or products such as fabric ends, unsold garments, so on.
Postconsumer textile waste
Textiles that have been disposed of after consumption and use by the citizen or end-users of commercial or industrial institutions, processed by a specialised textile sorter.
Bio-based material
Cottonised bast fibers
Fibres derived from the outer cell layers of the stems of various plants, both cultivated for use in textiles and agri-residue fibres. These fibres undergo cottonisation processing to shorten bast fibre length and remove lignin and other components to allow for spinning on cotton machinery and improved handfeel and aesthetic properties. These cottonisation processes can be mechanical, chemical, enzymatic or other, or used in combination.
Biosynthetics
Biosynthetics are synthetic polymer materials comprised, in whole or in part by bio-derived compounds. These compounds can either be made with an input of biological origin (biomass), and/or where the process is performed by a living microorganism. For bio-based PET, either the ethylene glycol or terephthalic acid are made from bio feedstocks. Other biosynthetic polymers include PHA, PLA, and PBS.
Bio feedstocks
Bio feedstocks are feedstocks derived from biological origin. Feedstocks commonly used include corn, sugarcane, sugarbeets and in the future could also include agri-residues, methane gas and captured carbon emissions.
Biofabricated proteins
Man-made fibres produced from protein polymers which are biofabricated by genetically modified microbes fed on nutrients (sugar feedstock). The polymer is extracted, purified, dried and then the protein polymer solution is spun into fibres.
Regenerated proteins
Man-made fibres produced from either animal or vegetable nonfibrous proteins which have been reconfigured to take up a fibrous form. The process requires the isolation of the polymer from the source material for solubilisation so that it can be extruded or spun.
FAQ's
What do you mean by “next‑gen materials”?
Novel and innovative fibres and materials with desired improved environmental and/or social outcomes when compared with conventional options; are currently in early stages of commercialisation or development; and require further technological advancement and cost optimisation for widespread adoption. This next generation of fibres and materials promises to advance solutions for the sustainability and circularity challenges faced by the industry. The vision is for these materials to transition from “next generation” to “preferred existing” status.
Why is Fashion for Good prioritising next-generation materials?
Beyond aesthetics, materials are pivotal to the fashion industry’s environmental footprint: They account for 92% of the industry’s total emissions through their extraction, processing, and production. When it comes to the cost structure of garments, materials represent around 30% of cost of goods sold (COGS)—ranging from 15–25% in luxury to up to 60% in the mass market.
How large is the current adoption of next-gen materials?
Today, next-gen materials account for less than 1% of global fibre production.
What is the adoption potential for next-gen materials by 2030?
According to Fashion for Good and BCG, next-gen materials could represent ~8% of total fibre market (≈ 13 million tonnes) by 2030 (excluding leather alternatives).
What are the main barriers to scaling next-gen materials?
- Cost premium relative to conventional materials
- Technical and performance validation risks
- Difficulty in aggregating demand and reducing market fragmentation
- Challenges in accessing capital and optimal financing models
How does Fashion for Good help overcome barriers to scale?
- Demand: via demand pooling (e.g. Fiber Clubs) and transition pricing mechanisms (e.g. Price Parity toolkit)
- Cost & de-risking: through validation projects to prove performance and share cost stability, through collective mechanisms to drive supply chain efficiencies
- Capital: by structuring financing and matching scaling partners
What is the “Price Parity Toolkit”?
A framework designed to bridge the price gap between next-gen and conventional materials. It introduces financing and pricing mechanisms that decouple cost premiums, enabling earlier adoption.
Relevant Resources
Explore tools, news, reports, and insights at the forefront of creating a positive future for the fashion industry.
Bending The Adoption Curve: Next-gen Materials To Reach 8% Of Fiber Market By 2030
Understanding 'Bio' Material Innovations: A Primer for the Fashion Industry Report
The Next Generation of Materials... From Waste
In Conversation with Renewcell: The Innovator Turning Worn-out Clothes into Next-gen Materials
5 FAQS About ‘Leather’ Alternatives